Collection Online
silk, metallic lace, silk/metallic thread, glass beads, gelatin sequins
125.0 cm (centre back) 170.0 cm (hem circumference)
Place/s of Execution
Paris, France
label, inside centre back neckline, stamped on silk: ÉTÉ 1920
woven in green and black silk: Paquin (underlined) / PARIS / LONDRES • BUENOS • AIRES • MADRID
Accession Number
International Fashion and Textiles
Credit Line
National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne
Purchased through The Art Foundation of Victoria with the assistance of David Syme & Co. Limited, Fellow, 1979
© Paquin
Gallery location
Not on display
Curator Jun I. Kanai argues that Japanese dress was the basis of the modern western wardrobe and that the kimono in particular, with its flat construction, loose shape and emphasis on textile design, heralded the modern coat. Here, examples by leading couturiers such as Jeanne Paquin and Callot Soeurs show evidence of the influence of the kimono in their loose-fitting cloaks and jackets. Art Deco designers were also heavily influenced by Japanese ukiyo-e, which were highly stylised woodblock prints. Their influence is seen here in the application of stylised flattened motifs, particularly evident in the roses.