Installation view of designs by Maison Schiaparelli on display in NGV Triennial from 3 December 2023 to 7 April 2024 at NGV International, Melbourne.<br/>
Photo: Sean Fennessy<br/>


Photo: courtesy Maison Schiaparelli

Schiaparelli, Paris
France, 1927–1954, 2012–

Daniel Roseberry (designer)
United States born 1985, worked in France 2019–

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NGV International
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Since his debut autumn–winter collection for French couture house Schiaparelli in July 2019, artistic director Daniel Roseberry has been at the forefront of contemporary fashion culture. Redefining the design codes and legacy of innovation left by the house’s founder, Elsa Schiaparelli, Roseberry’s collections have been notable for their bold aesthetics and explicit experimentation.

With a creative process that encompasses drawing, digital collage, and the artistry of the atelier, Roseberry’s design vocabulary is underpinned by his belief in fantasy and affinity for concepts of Surrealist displacement.

Spanning several recent collections, this presentation evokes a magical cosmos in which explorations of technique, form and decoration collide. From three-dimensional embroidery and beading to sculptural volumes and gilded anatomical motifs, Roseberry’s work is both imaginative and illusive: a challenge to all of couture’s clichés while simultaneously showcasing the artistry at the heart of the discipline.

Under the direction of founder Elsa Schiaparelli (1890 –1973) between 1927 and 1954, Parisian fashion house Schiaparelli cemented a reputation for artistic creativity and innovation. Schiaparelli’s unorthodox womenswear combined experimental materials, such as acrylic, cellophane and rayon jersey, with inventive fastenings, trompe-l’œil effects, bold prints and witty embellishments. Informed by Surrealist thinking, her thematic collections included collaborations with artist friends Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau, while her association with Maison Lesage produced exquisite bespoke embroideries, reflective of her own interests in astrology and nature. Revived in the early twenty-first century, Maison Schiaparelli is today led by Daniel Roseberry whose work continues to draw on the founding legacies of innovation and the artisanship.

Courtesy of Maison Schiaparelli, Paris