Regarding his autumn–winter 2017 collection, Alessandro Michele stated, ‘I’m trying to follow my rules, not fashion rules.’ On the runway this manifested as myriad eclectic printed and embroidered garments and accessories. Michele’s inspirations ranged from Renaissance paintings, Classical sculptures and sixteenth-century fashions to ‘geek’ tropes, Asian art and the formal gardens of English and Italian country houses. Here references to Chinese aesthetics can be seen in the cut of the coat and in the dragon design on the back.