Dress, bolero and hat
1972
Medium
cotton
Measurements
(a) 126.0 cm (centre back) 33.5 (waist, flat) (dress)
(b) 41.0 cm (centre back) 73.0 cm (sleeve length) (bolero)
(c) 88.0 cm (outer circumference) 14.2 cm (height) 14.0 cm (depth) (hat)
Credit Line
National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne
Purchased, 1999
Gallery location
Level 3 foyer
Level 3, NGV International
About this work
Biba was a London fashion store and label of the 1960s and 1970s founded and primarily run by Polish-born Barbara Hulanicki and her husband Stephen Fitz-Simon. While incredibly successful, Hulanicki left the company after disagreements about creative control with the majority stakeholders and owners, British Land Company. It was closed shortly afterwards in 1975. In contrast to the futuristic styles and space age brightness of some sixties clothing, Hulanicki’s designs were inspired by the past. She created romantic, decadent garments for women swept up in the growing craze for vintage silhouettes. Biba was known for their rich palettes and eclectic prints. These works showcase Hulanicki’s interest in historical textiles – she was often influenced by Edwardian, Art Nouveau and Art Deco stylised motifs.
Artwork Details
Place/s of Execution
London, England
Inscription
(a) label, inside centre back, printed in gold on brown polyester: BIBA
(b) label, inside centre back, printed in gold on brown polyester: BIBA
(c) label, inside centre back, printed in gold on brown polyester: BIBA
Accession Number
1999.81.a-c
Department
International Fashion and Textiles
Physical description
(a) The dress in cotton has an overall printed pattern of red love hearts pierced with an arrow, entirely covered with white polka dots on a plain brown ground. Styled with short capped sleeves, a V-neckline, and a cut-away back, the dress has a wide waist band panel with the skirt constructed from four flared panels. The dress fastens down the centre back with a zipper.
(b) The matching bolero overlays the dress like a fitted cropped bodice. The V-neckline plunges to under the bust-line where it fastens with a single covered button. The bolero has full-length sleeves that are pleated and padded at the shoulder, and deep cuffs fastened with three covered buttons. The garment is shaped close to the body with a half-belt attached to the back, threaded through two loops.
(c) The matching hat has a dome shaped crown, made from two panels. The stiffened brim slopes away from the crown. Lined in brown polyester, the brim is also reinforced with brown grosgrain ribbon.