Installation view of <em>Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto</em> at NGV International, Melbourne. Photo: Sean Fennessy

Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto

NGV International

3 Dec 21 – 25 Apr 22

Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto is the first exhibition in Australia to focus exclusively on the significant contribution to twentieth-century fashion culture by the renowned French couturière Gabrielle Chanel (1883–1971).

Curated by the Palais Galliera, Paris and presented in partnership with the National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne, the exhibition features over 100 outfits as well as jewellery, accessories, cosmetics and perfumes. Key designs are drawn from the rich holdings of the Palais Galliera and the Patrimoine de CHANEL, the heritage collections of the fashion house in Paris. These are complemented by works from public museums, including the NGV, and further private collections, creating this rare opportunity to see a comprehensive display of Gabrielle Chanel’s works from the full span of her long career.

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Fashion & Textiles

Microsite Exhibition labels Installation views Virtual tour Select works Watch-Read-Listen Publication Partners

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Installation views

Installation view of <em>Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto</em> at NGV International, Melbourne. Photo: Sean Fennessy<br/> Installation view of <em>Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto</em> at NGV International, Melbourne. Photo: Sean Fennessy<br/> Installation view of <em>Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto</em> at NGV International, Melbourne. Photo: Sean Fennessy<br/> Installation view of <em>Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto</em> at NGV International, Melbourne. Photo: Sean Fennessy<br/> Installation view of <em>Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto</em> at NGV International, Melbourne. Photo: Sean Fennessy<br/> Installation view of <em>Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto</em> at NGV International, Melbourne. Photo: Sean Fennessy<br/> Installation view of <em>Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto</em> at NGV International, Melbourne. Photo: Sean Fennessy<br/> Installation view of <em>Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto</em> at NGV International, Melbourne. Photo: Sean Fennessy<br/> Installation view of <em>Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto</em> at NGV International, Melbourne. Photo: Sean Fennessy<br/> Installation view of <em>Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto</em> at NGV International, Melbourne. Photo: Sean Fennessy<br/> Installation view of <em>Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto</em> at NGV International, Melbourne. Photo: Sean Fennessy<br/> Installation view of <em>Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto</em> at NGV International, Melbourne. Photo: Sean Fennessy<br/> Installation view of <em>Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto</em> at NGV International, Melbourne. Photo: Sean Fennessy<br/> Installation view of <em>Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto</em> at NGV International, Melbourne. Photo: Sean Fennessy<br/> Installation view of <em>Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto</em> at NGV International, Melbourne. Photo: Sean Fennessy<br/>

Virtual Tour

Select works

Gabrielle Chanel (designer)<br/> <em>Evening dress</em> autumn–winter 1927–28 (detail)<br/> silk crêpe embroidered with glass beads<br/> Patrimoine de CHANEL, Paris<br/> Photo © Julien T. Hamon<br/> Gabrielle Chanel (designer)<br/> Dress with bolero and belt<br/> spring–summer 1930<br/> printed silk chiffon, tulle<br/> Mark Walsh Leslie Chin Collection. Vintage Luxury, New York<br/> Photo copyright NGV<br/> Gabrielle Chanel (designer)<br/> <em>Ensemble with dress and jacket</em> c. 1926–27<br/> silk canvas, silk taffeta<br/> Patrimoine de CHANEL, Paris<br/> Photo © Julien T. Hamon<br/> Gabrielle Chanel (designer)<br/> <em>Suit</em> 1930<br/> wool jacquard knit, galalith, silk pongee lining<br/> Museum für Kunst und Gewerbe Hamburg, Property of the Stiftung Hamburger Kunstsammlungen<br/> Photo © Julien T. Hamon<br/> Gabrielle Chanel (designer)<br/> <em>Evening dress spring–summer</em> 1939<br/> printed and appliquéd silk voile, dyed ostrich feathers<br/> Museum of Applied Arts and Sciences, Sydney<br/> Purchased 1996<br/> Photo © Julien T. Hamon<br/> Gabrielle Chanel (designer) <br/> <em>Dress</em> spring–summer 1925 <br/> silk guipure lace, silk organza flower <br/> Patrimoine de CHANEL, Paris<br/> Photo © Julien T. Hamon<br/> Gabrielle Chanel (designer) <br/> <em>Evening dress</em> 1930–31 <br/> silk chiffon embroidered with sequins, silk pongee<br/> Patrimoine de CHANEL, Paris<br/> Photo © Julien T. Hamon<br/> CHANEL, Paris (couture house)<br /> Gabrielle CHANEL (designer)<br/> <em>Evening cape</em> (1924-1926) <!-- (front) --><br /> silk (velvet, georgette crepe), feathers (marabou)<br /> 123.0 cm (centre back) 230.0 cm (hem circumference)<br /> National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne<br /> Gift of Krystyna Campbell-Pretty AM and Family in memory of Delphine Lévy through the Australian Government’s Cultural Gift Program, 2021<br /> 2021.633<br /> © Courtesy of Chanel, Paris <!--146141--> Gabrielle Chanel (designer)<br/> <em>Evening dress spring–summer</em> 1930 <br/> silk tulle, insertions of lace and tulle, satin crêpe, silk chiffon <br/> Patrimoine de CHANEL, Paris<br/> Photo © Julien T. Hamon<br/> Gabrielle Chanel (designer)<br/> <em>Evening dress</em> autumn–winter 1938–39 <br/> silk tulle embroidered with sequins<br/> Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris<br/> Gift of Joëlle Despas in memory<br/> of her mother, Isabelle Despas<br/> Photo © Julien T. Hamon<br/> Evening dress<br/> autumn–winter 1930–31<br/> net, embroidered sequins, gold-coloured braid<br/> Patrimoine de CHANEL, Paris<br/> Photo copyright Julien Harm<br/> Gabrielle Chanel (designer)<br/> Left:<br/> Suit: jacket and skirt <br/> spring-summer 1961<br/> Tweed, silk grosgrain, gilt metal, silk pongee<br/> Patrimoine de CHANEL, Paris<br/> Right<br/> Suit<br/> spring-summer 1961<br/> Tweed, silk grosgrain, gilt metal, silk pongee<br/> Patrimoine de CHANEL, Paris<br/> Photo © Julien T. Hamon<br/> CHANEL, Paris (couture house)<br /> Gabrielle CHANEL (designer)<br/> <em>Suit</em> (c. 1965) <!-- (front) --><br /> silk, wool, metal<br /> (a) 61.0 cm (centre back) 54.0 cm (sleeve length) (jacket) (b) 50.0 cm (centre back) 38.0 cm (waist, flat) (top) (c) 67.0 cm (centre back) 34.8 cm (waist, flat) (skirt)<br /> National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne<br /> Presented through The Art Foundation of Victoria from the wardrobe of Mrs Mavis Powell by her daughter Mrs Angela Wood, Member, 2000<br /> 2000.154.a-c<br /> © Courtesy of Chanel, Paris <!--66914--> Gabrielle Chanel (designer) <br/> ‘2.55’ bag c. 1954 –71 <br/> quilted lambskin, gilt metal<br/> Patrimoine de CHANEL, Paris <br/> Photo © Julien T. Hamon<br/> CHANEL design made by Massaro<br/> Prototype of two-tone slingback pump<br/> 1961<br/> kidskin, silk satin<br/> Patrimoine de CHANEL, Paris<br/> Photo © Julien T. Hamon<br/> Pendant worn by Gabrielle Chanel<br/> Between 1950 and 1960<br/> Gold, silver, vermeil, diamonds, emeralds, synthetic stones<br/> Patrimoine de CHANEL, Paris<br/> Photo © Julien T. Hamon<br/> CHANEL design made by Gripoix<br/> <em>Brooch</em> 1937 <br/> gilt metal, glass paste (pâte de verre) <br/> Patrimoine de CHANEL, Paris <br/> Photo © Julien T. Hamon<br/> Gabrielle Chanel (designer)<br/> Dress<br/> spring-summer 1960<br/> embroidered cotton tulle, lame, organdie<br/> Palais Galliera, Paris, gift of Chanel<br/> Photo © Julien T. Hamon<br/> Installation view of Gabrielle Chanel.<br/> Fashion Manifesto from 4 December<br/> 2021 to 25 April 2022 at NGV<br/> International, Melbourne.<br/> Photo: Sean Fennessy<br/> CHANEL design made by Goossens<br/> <em>Pendant</em> 1960s<br/> vermeil, rock crystal, tourmaline<br/> Patrimoine de CHANEL, Paris<br/> Photo © Julien T. Hamon<br/> Gabrielle Chanel (designer) <br/> <em>Dress</em> spring–summer 1964 <br/> organza and cotton cloqué <br/> Palais Galliera, Paris <br/> Gift of the Comité de Développement et de Promotion de l’Habillement <br/> <em>Formal dress</em> spring–summer 1959 <br/> silk chiffon, silk satin ribbon <br/> Patrimoine de CHANEL, Paris <br/> Photo © Julien T. Hamon<br/> Gabrielle Chanel (designer)<br/> <em>Dress</em> spring–summer 1971 <br/> silk organza, lurex lamé<br/> Palais Galliera, Paris<br/> Gift of CHANEL<br/> CHANEL design made by Goossens<br/> <em>Belt</em> spring–summer 1971<br/> gilt metal, glass paste (pâte de verre)<br/> Patrimoine de CHANEL, Paris<br/> Photo © Julien T. Hamon<br/>

Watch & Read

Introducing Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto Curated by the Palais Galliera, Paris
Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto | Collecting Chanel Preserving the past
Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto | The little black dress A symbol of modernity
Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto | Curator favourites Curator talk
Unboxing Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto Behind the scenes
Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto In partnership with the Palais Galliera

Publication

Exhibition catalogue

Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto

Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel is rightly considered one of the most influential designers of the twentieth century. Chanel’s radical design innovations and sophisticated design codes – her use of jersey and tweed, her appropriation of elements from sportswear and menswear, her pioneering use of black, and her embrace of the suit – have become iconic, as have the fragrances, accessories and jewellery she created.

This volume traces the birth and evolution of Chanel’s style and offers new insights into the designer’s enduring legacy. Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto features specially commissioned photographs by Julien T. Hamon showcasing the clothing, illuminating essays by leading fashion historians , and rare archival documents, including portraits of Chanel herself.

The publication accompanies the National Gallery of Victoria’s landmark exhibition of the same title. This major retrospective of the life and work of Gabrielle Chanel was originally staged at the Palais Galliera in Paris during late 2020 and mid 2021.

Publisher: National Gallery of Victoria and Thames & Hudson
Format: Hardback
Dimensions: 315 x 245 mm (portrait)
Pages: 312 pp (216 illustrations )
ISBN: 9780500025031
Category: Fashion
RRP: $79.95
Publication date: December 2021

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Media releases

14 Jul 21

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