Collection Online
Medium
silk, metallic lace, metallic thread, glass (beads), gelatin (sequins), velvet (lining)
Inscription
label, centre back neckline, stamped in ink on silk: ÉTÉ 1920
woven in green on black silk: Paquin (underlined) / PARIS / LONDRES • BUENOS • AIRES • MADRID
Accession Number
D17-1979
Department
International Fashion and Textiles
Gallery location
Not on display
Curator Jun I. Kanai argues that Japanese dress was the basis of the modern western wardrobe and that the kimono in particular, with its flat construction, loose shape and emphasis on textile design, heralded the modern coat. Here, examples by leading couturiers such as Jeanne Paquin and Callot Soeurs show evidence of the influence of the kimono in their loose-fitting cloaks and jackets. Art Deco designers were also heavily influenced by Japanese ukiyo-e, which were highly stylised woodblock prints. Their influence is seen here in the application of stylised flattened motifs, particularly evident in the roses.