Katabira kosode, summer kimono with bouquets and scattered fans, early to mid-19th century, is a lightweight summer kimono that would have been worn by a woman from the samurai class. The term kosode refers to a type of kimono with small sleeves, traditionally worn by married women. The patterns on this kimono reflect the changing seasons. Wisteria, which bloom in late spring, and peonies, which bloom from late spring to early summer, are featured in the design. There are also motifs of the folding fan (ogi). When opened, a fan spreads out in a shape that represents the idea of expansion and growth, which is why fans are associated with family prosperity and good fortune.

What kinds of patterns or symbols do you associate with different seasons?
As you look around the exhibition, what other seasonal motifs can you find?

Although Katabira furisode, summer kimono with falling snow scene was designed for summer wear, its design features a striking winter landscape. Snow appears to fall diagonally across the scene, covering a frosty scene that includes bamboo and plum trees. The blossoming plum hints at the early signs of spring. The term furisode refers to a style of kimono with long, flowing sleeves, traditionally worn by young, unmarried women.

Why do you think this summer kimono might show a winter landscape? How do you like to cool down in summer time?

Uchikake furisode, wedding kimono with pine, bamboo, plum blossom and cranes is a richly decorated garment worn by the daughter of a wealthy merchant family on her wedding day. This deep red kimono is made from silk and gilt thread, and features auspicious motifs such as pine trees, plum blossoms, and bamboo. Known as the “Three Friends of Winter,” these plants symbolise strength and resilience, which are qualities admired in marriage. The circular crane design represents longevity and happiness.

What special clothing do you wear to celebrate occasions like birthdays, weddings, festivals?

Baby’s ceremonial kimono (Ubugi), was made for a baby boy. Ubugi are special ceremonial kimono worn by newborns when visiting a shrine to celebrate their arrival. This kimono features the silhouette of a samurai helmet and traditional Kyoto-made dolls called Gosho-ningyō, which are associated with the Kyoto Imperial Palace. Colourful and vibrantly decorated kimono are designed for children in Japan for festivals and celebrations. Boys’ kimono often include symbols such as tigers or samurai to represent bravery and honour, while girls’ kimono are often decorated with floral and nature motifs.

Why do you think special kimono like ubugi is worn during birth ceremonies in Japan? Can you think of any special clothing or traditions in your own culture that are used to celebrate a baby’s birth or childhood milestones?

Rag kimono (Boro kimono) Meiji Period 1868-1912, is made from more than 100 pieces of cotton fabric. Boro kimono were produced from recycled scraps of fabric by people living in the countryside. These garments were not intended to be beautiful – they were purely functional and made out of necessity by people who could not afford to buy new clothing. However, in recent times they have come to be appreciated for their rustic beauty, the random collage effect and the sense of spontaneity in their design. They also connect to the idea of wabi-sabi, the appreciation of imperfection and that loved objects become more beautiful with use.

How many different types of fabric can you see in this kimono? What stories might each piece of fabric tell about the original wearer? Discuss with a partner.

Fireman’s coat (Hikeshi-kawahaori), 19th century, is an example of a kawabaori, a deerskin coat worn by samurai firefighting brigades. The designs on each deerskin coat indicate the brigade or group of the wearer and helped identify squad members and individuals in the smoke and confusion of a fire. The design was created by a paste-resist technique – applied to the leather coat using a stencil and then exposing the leather coat to smoke in a special curing room, infusing the brown colour into the leather.

Why do you think the material leather has been chosen for a fireman’s coat?

Ainu attushi, 19th century Hokkaido, Japan is a robe made and worn by the Ainu people. Attushi are woven from thread made from elm tree bark and are used both for everyday wear and for special occasions. The blue cotton added (appliqué) geometric decorations are related to ancestor and nature worship and positioned at the openings of the garment (neck, sleeves and hem) to protect the wearer.

What are some examples of clothing worn for ceremonies in your culture or any other cultures you know about?

In the mid 1800s, following Japan’s reopening to the west after more than 200 years of relative global isolation during the Edo period, Japanese art and design began to reach Europe, America and Australia. Western artists and collectors became fascinated by items like kimono, woodblock prints, ceramics and lacquerware.

This excitement about Japanese style led to a movement called Japonisme, which inspired many artists, including Monet, and influenced French Impressionism.

During this time, Western painters often showed European women dressed in kimono. The English artist Philip Wilson Steer captured this trend in his 1896 painting The Japanese Gown, showing a woman wearing a Japanese kimono loosely in a European-style room. His colourful and expressive brushstrokes show the influence of Impressionism, while the kimono adds a touch of exotic style that was popular in Europe at the time.

How is the kimono in The Japanese Gown worn different from how it might be worn traditionally in Japan? Do you think the woman in the painting is using the kimono in the same way it would be used in Japan? Why or why not?

Issey Miyake’s Sharaku is a modern take on a kimono jacket (haori), inspired by the work of graphic designer Ikko Tanaka. Miyake, one of Japan’s most famous fashion designers, trained in Paris before opening his own design studio in Tokyo. Tanaka was known for his bold posters that used flat colour and geometric shapes based on traditional Japanese art. The two artists were close friends, and after Tanaka passed away, Miyake designed a special collection in his honour.

The Sharaku set includes a pleated haori-style coat, handbag and accessories. The shapes and patterns are based on one of Tanaka’s posters, which reimagined a famous kabuki actor’s portrait by the Edo-period artist Tōshūsai Sharaku. Miyake transformed Tanaka’s artwork into fashion using his unique pleated fabric. This collaboration shows how traditional and modern ideas can come together and reflects the two designers’ shared appreciation for Japanese tradition and bold modern aesthetics.

Imagine you are wearing this pleated haori. How do you think it looks and feels as you move in it? Write down three words to describe how the fabric might feel against your skin.

Takahashi Hiroko is a contemporary Japanese artist and designer known for her bold black-and-white kimono designs featuring circles and lines. Her work blends traditional Japanese craftsmanship with a striking modern aesthetic.

Takahashi models her own designs and creates self-portrait mannequins to display her kimono. Unlike many female models who pose in soft, feminine ways when wearing kimono, Takahashi presents her work with strength and confidence by standing tall, clenching her fists, and meeting the viewer’s gaze. She challenges expectations, showing that kimono can be powerful and bold.

Working from a renovated warehouse studio in downtown Tokyo, Takahashi has designed kimono for sumo wrestlers and goods for brands like Adidas and IKEA. She uses simple geometric shapes to express complex ideas, demonstrating that less can be more. Her practice connects makers, sellers, and wearers of kimono, celebrating culture, creativity, and community. Through her work, she invites us to see tradition in new and exciting ways.

Strike a pose like Takahashi by standing tall, clenching your fists, and looking straight ahead. How does it feel to wear confidence like that? Do you think fashion can change the way someone feels about themselves?

Shigemune Tamao is a creative contemporary kimono designer and stylist. For the NGV’s Kimono exhibition, she created a playful and colourful outfit inspired by a fictional character called Sister Sha, who travels the world collecting treasures. The outfit combines fun accessories and strange but cute decorations.

Shigemune studied textile design and learned many traditional dyeing techniques. While studying, she became interested in antique kimono and started designing her own. Her kimono outfits are unique artworks that mix old styles with her own bold ideas. Some of her designs explore powerful symbols and images. She also works as a stylist for music videos and fashion shows. Shigemune’s work shows that kimono can be contemporary and personal, allowing people to express who they are through tradition, art, and fashion.

Look at Shigemune Tamao’s kawaii kimono style. How does it mix traditional Japanese culture with modern or playful elements? What stands out to you?

How do you think artists like Shigemune Tamao are helping to keep kimono culture alive for younger generations?