NGV Triennial

Tomo Koizumi
Look 27, top and skirt



Top and skirt, designed 2019 autumn–winter, made 2020, is an ensemble from Tomo Koizumi’s critically acclaimed first collection, presented at New York Fashion Week in February 2019. Characteristic of his practice, the work is maximalist in scale and uses metres of vibrantly-coloured Japanese polyester organza, first formed into ruffles and then machine-stitched together to create the garment. While his dresses typically use between 50 and 80 metres of fabric, this work employs over 200 metres. Choosing to work with one material is a strategy that Koizumi believes will consistently push him to create something new. Top and skirt embodies Koizumi’s exuberant aesthetic, the rainbow-hued ruffles expressive of his stated intention to make fashion that radiates pure joy and beauty.

Tomo Koizumi is an emerging Japanese fashion designer who became the breakout star of the autumn–winter 2019 fashion season. Previously working as a costume designer in Tokyo, with his own brand since 2011, Koizumi captured worldwide attention after one of his customized ruffled ensembles was worn by Lady Gaga in 2016. In 2018 he gained further prominence via Instagram, when his work was brought to the attention of influential English stylist Katie Grand, who helped to orchestrate the presentation of his debut collection at New York Fashion Week. Since then, Koizumi’s exuberant designs have been applauded for their visual and emotional power and singular material vocabulary. Koizumi was recently a finalist in the 2020 LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers, which was ultimately split between the eight contenders due to COVID-19.

The NGV warmly thanks Triennial Major Supporters Krystyna Campbell-Pretty AM & Family, Triennial Supporters Tania & Sam Brougham, Tommy Hilfiger Australia, PVH Brands, Triennial Cricle donors Rob Gould and SIRAP Art Collective as well as donors to the 2020 NGV Annual Appeal for their support.